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Create Somthing

(Making Methamphetamine)

How to make LSD - Acid
(Making Crack-Cocaine)
(Making Methamphetamine)
(Making GHB,"Liquid E")
(Cultivating Drugs)
How to make a drinkable form of marijuana
Explosives when combinded


Materials: listed for the lava reaction only
Pre Reaction: very basic review on cleaning you ingredients for more info see wicked rains write up on E/I/RP how to get it!
The Reaction: The lava lamp reaction itself
Post Reaction: Info on what to do after the reaction
FAQ’s: Its Recommended you read the all the FAQs before starting the reaction.
Why it takes time: very detailed explanation why long wet rxns work
Final thoughts: self explanatory


• Lava lamp
• (pseudo)ephedrine
• Red Phosphorus
• Iodine
• D-H20 (Distilled Water)

Pre Reaction:

get some 25mg ephedrine pills that are easily cleaned with a TCE pull and cold dry acetone wash (be sure all the TCE is gone before adding acetone cause they react with each other, the acetone wash isn't essential, but you can never get the ephedrine clean enough).

shake the strikers in hot water, shake off the red in acetone, then muriatic acid boils on the red while outside, then wash with lots of water, wrap paper towels around the filter and squeeze dry, empty out on some paper and chop and dry well.

add 1 pint 7% tincture to 2 cups water and 2 shot glasses of muriatic acid then 1 pint hydrogen peroxide, mix well while adding, cover and let sit in closet 12 hours, then filter with double filter and wash with lots of water, wrap paper towels around it and squeeze completely dry, then wrap in dry towels and put in a jar and pour damp rid over it and let it sit a day.

The Reaction:

It’s recommended you read all the FAQs before starting the lava lamp reaction.

Buy a 25 watt lava lamp (flea markets have the cheapest) with a bottle top that can be popped or screwed off. It seems there are tops that are attached, screw off, and pop off. The screw off type is preferred, then the pop off, the attached kinds should be avoided as there is no way to take off the top without chipping the glass.

If using homemade RP + I then….
10mL distilled water + 10g (pseudo)ephedrine (extracted well) + 7.5g red phosphorus (extracted fresh from matchbook strikers) + 15g iodine (extracted from 7% iodine tincture and dried well)

If lab grade use equal mass of iodine as ephedrine, and half the mass of red phosphorus as ephedrine. If using iodine and red phosphorus from tincture and matchbook strikers then use 50% more than if it were lab grade. Use equal mass of distilled water as ephedrine regardless.

There are 3 kinds of lava lamps there is a 40 watt, a 30 watt, and a 25 watt lamp.

As a rule of thumb, the ideal size cook is half the wattage as grams of ephedrine (40 watt is good for 20g cook, 30 watt for 15g, 25 watt for 10g-12g) and let it go 36 hours, some cooks (especially smaller than ideal) can be done in 24 hours (just check it and make sure the RP sinks to the bottom like bricks, and all the other signs of the reaction being done). The size of cook can be increased slightly but will need to increase time of cook as well. It’s recommended to just get more lamps though than try bigger cooks.

Tape a punch balloon to the top of the lava lamp.

After 48 hours check it and make sure if it is ready, then work it up as usual

Gassing, washing, and recrystalization is a very good idea

Yields vary, but expect 5g minimum, more like 6g

unsure what the inside temperature of the lava lamp will be, and sure to vary from lamp to lamp, but if you want to be sure the reaction will take place then you will need to check the temp inside the bottle.

Measure the temp after an hour (when it usually is going good as a lava lamp), and go from there

I would suggest that you try it first with just some water in your lava lamp, and a thermometer suspended with a string or something, so you can find out what temperature a 25w bulb will produce. You might have to wait a few hours before you take a reading. That way you'll know, and won't have to waste precursors.

90 Celsius is sufficient however you want a temp of slightly over 100 Celsius inside flask, anywhere from 90-120 is fine though, lower the temp the longer the cook time needed.

When first tried there was doubt the 25 watt gave off enough heat, but it does, however it is barely enough get the job done.

[It is a really good idea to cover the bottom of the bottle with aluminum foil, this increases the temperature as well as blocks the photo energy which can cause free radicals from the iodine (not good).]

After all this is in place simply turn on your lava lamp and check back 48 hours later. * See the FAQs on how to mix your starting reactants.

Post Reaction

Here is an improved post reaction

after the reaction is done, turn off the lamp and let it cool so you can hold it. Add equal volume hot water and shake well, then immediately pour into funnel with 3 prewet filters and a few cotton balls stuffed in the neck. Pour a small amount of hot water in the bottle again and get the last of the red out. Collect the filtered liquid and pour over the filters and red until it comes out with no tiny red particles in suspension (shine flashlight in it if it helps). Pour half the volume of collected liquid through the filters and collect it in the jar, save the filters to clean and reuse the red on it.

Now you should have 3-5 times the volume of the original post reaction solution in the jar. Add equal volume of hot VM&P naphtha (or whatever non-polar solvent you are going to use to pull the freebase) and mix well and let sit 15 minutes, siphon off the top layer and throw away. Repeat the wash until it comes out clean, once or twice more. these naphtha washes get out all the naphtha soluble trash so when you pull the freebase there is no naphtha soluble trash you need to clean up later

while that shit is separating into layers, mix up a 25% lye solution, 1g lye per 4mL water, it will heat up when mixed, so mix slow, and let cool to room temperature before using

add 10mL naphtha per gram of ephedrine used. Add the lye solution a few mL at a time, it should turn milky white where it hits, then go back to the yellowish color. Keep adding the lye solution every 30 seconds or so until it stays milky white and you get that fish smell, then it is ready (no pH strips needed!) no matter what the pH reads. be sure when adding the lye solution that it doesn't get too hot or yields will suffer, just give it time and it will cool

let the solution sit 15 minutes to separate into 2 layers, siphon up the top layer and save it. Repeat the adding naphtha and lye solution again and pull off the top layer again after waiting an hour or two. Add more lye and non-polar and let it sit a whole day before siphoning to get the last of it. Each naphtha pull should make the bottom layer less and less yellow. While it is sitting though go on with the procedure and go back to this afterward

now just gas the top layers with sulfuric acid and salt and filter out the product, then do an ice cold dry acetone wash and dry alcohol/acetone crystallization and you are left with some nice crystals. The crystallization is not really needed since you naphtha washed the post reaction solution and there isn't much trash in the gassed out product. The acetone wash alone is enough to clean it up nicely. However crystallization makes it look nicer and the crystals are big and clear.

go back to the saved solution and pull off the top layer and gas, then clean it up and that should be all of it. if your yield is too low (under 40% is considered low, 50% is fine, 60% and higher is great), might want to go back to the bottom layer with the water/lye/trash to see if a hot naphtha pull will get anymore, but it is doubtful. Also, might want to check the acetone and alcohol used to clean up the final product, any water still in them will eat up some product, so just evaporate it, although there is sure to be all the trash in there too. it is a good idea to save everything until the final product is obtained and the yields considered satisfactory. This way you will not throw out perfectly good product, "waste not want not"


Question: Could SWIM do this same rxn, but for only 2-2.5 hours. What might the results look like then?

Answer: You wouldn't get full conversion, which is the whole point of the long wet reduction. You would need to decrease the amount of water by half.

Question: What order should the E,RP and I2 be mixed in and how should they be mixed?

Answer: Add water, then (pseudo)ephedrine then RP. Let it mix well make sure you grind them up to a fine powder (use a fine sieve as a indicator that there grinded up properly) then add them in, and stir and swirl it around so it all dissolves. Do that for maybe 10 minutes before adding the iodine. When adding the I2(iodine) swirl it in until it kicks off then let it sit and turn on the lava lamp. It should bubble and kind of stirs itself in a way although manual occasional swirling doesn’t hurt anything. Use a glass stir rod when mixing and/or swirling and not a metal one because anything metal reactions. Make sure it’s a long glass stir rod because of the long tall walls of the lava lamp 

Question: Can you overcook this reaction? is it bad ? ..ect

Answer: If you let it go too long it will convert back from meth to ephedrine usually after around 7 days. As a rule of thumb don’t let your maximum cooking time extend 3days and 2 days is the normal maximum.

Question: at what temp do things start to get too hot and I get those red RP smoke fires?

Answer: well you mostly get these on short dry cooks. This is a long wet cook and hence doesn’t smoke up nearly as much and don’t even come close to a red phosphorus fire. Its mostly because of the 10ml of water mixed in there is at least double of what a short dry cook has. To put it another way it dilutes the HI acid, slowing the rate of reaction of ephedrine into the intermediates and then into meth. For newbies what that means is more water slows the reaction and allows a full conversion of ephedrine into meth.

Question: How does one go about cleaning the lava lamp after the reaction?

Answer: I think the materials inside are wax and alcohol, by the feel and smell of it, just turn it on so the wax is gooey, then pop the top off, pour it out, and let cool (important to cool to room temp first), then just rinse out 3 times or so with water. Do not attempt to get the wax off when its dry unless you want to known as one of “America’s Dumbest Cooks “

Question: So all I need is a flask and the basic materials in the materials section?

Answer: yeah, that is why it is so great because good flasks are hard to find for most that is and you don’t' need a separate heat element. It’s a flask/heater all in one.

Question: What is the rate at which the reaction goes very sudden like after 48 hours it’s done?

Answer: Well it isn't a sudden change, it is very gradual.

Question: How do I know when the reaction is done?

Answer: when it is done, like there is that smell, the RP sinks to the bottom quickly if disturbed, balloon/condom barely inflated( It would have at one time been inflated fully from the reaction but the pull on the 2nd part of the reaction causes it to suck back in that HI gas causing the balloon condom to inflate) but it wont go all the way down and the color of the liquid too, you want clear to yellowish, not orange or red.

Question: What happens if I use too much water?

Answer: Well the first time ever doing a long wet reduction I did 20mL for a 10 grammar and I thought it was done after 36 hours and it was no where near close heck my condom never even inflated. I learned that too much water and it won't react.

Question: the balloon on the top does it matter what kind?

Answer: buy a inch diameter braided hose about 1-2 feet long and tape over the opening of the glass, then tape a balloon or condom or the like to the end of the tube. I personally use a extra long condom it works just as well.

Question: So does that mean that all the other folks that do 2 hour rxns are not converting the full product, or are they doing things a little different than SWIJ is?

Answer: Using Rp/I2 you need to cook at least 12 hours, the masters like Geezmeister say at least 24 hours…….BUT DAMN SURE MORE THAN 2 HOURS! If you want to fuck your health up and do a product laden with impurities and side effects then cook the shit for 2 hours and that’s what you will end up with. If you want to do meth then cook the shit for 24 hours and get the real thing! More is explained in Why it Takes Time Section just after the FAQs.


It's kind of fun to read all that poetic waxing about "potency" and stuff, but that doesn't explain it clearly enough to the next moron who will read it and start some new urban myths in his area which will without a doubt spread and end up here again.

What we have is a reaction converting A (precursor) and B (HI) into an intermediate C (iodometh) and finally into the desired end product D (meth) and a whole lot of different side products and contaminants(e, f, g, h... etc):

A + B ------> [C] ------> D (A + C + e + f + g + h...)

A + C being mentioned on the product side of the equation means there will also be some unconverted precursor and intermediate present.
Amounts and distribution patterns of D and (A, C, e, f, g, h...) in your end product depend on a whole lot of factors, mainly reaction conditions, but also on the workup procedure, method of crystallization and method of recrystallization. Needless to say, if A isn't pure and contains other chemicals the product distribution will be even more complicated.

As every chemist knows, chemical reactions take TIME to go to completion. While there are a few incredibly fast reactions which take only milliseconds or less to finish, the HI reduction is unfortunately not among them!
And every chemist will tell you, that stoichometry is also very important. When one of reactants is present in excess then it will be left over afterwards, and the conversion of the reactant which was not in excess will undergo a more complete conversion. This also means that if there is an insufficient amount of a chemical present the reaction CANNOT be completed for the other reactant being present in excess!

A good example for that last case is the 'dry' fast rP/I2 reaction. There isn't sufficient H2O present to convert all the I2 into HI, so it is absolutely impossible that this one converts all precursors A into product D. The result will be a wild ass mixture of a little D plus a shitload of unconverted A, intermediate C, and the usual e, f, g, h... crap. Since the purification methods used by garage chemists are usually insufficient to properly separate the components that wild ass ugly mixture is what you will end up with. Proof: ref. on Rhodium's claiming 50 impurities present in such meth. Shitty taste. Peanut butter appearance.

Since it is close to impossible to completely separate desired product mixture containing D (meth ) from all the other shit in a garage setting, especially A and C (which happen to have very similar solubility’s as D!), the amount of pure D in the end product will be rather low, and the amount of toxic side products rather high.

I guess most of you would call that stuff 'low potency' meth. Some morons will call that 'good' meth, because the taste and toxic action is what they expect meth to be like.
I call it impure, dirty, toxic and lots of unconverted precursor present.

So what to do to get a better end product?

I) make sure that there's enough B (HI) present to convert all the A (precursor) into D (meth)

II) for condition I to be fulfilled, you have to add enough water to the reaction! Because if there's not enough water around your I2 will not be converted into HI! Also: gaseous HI which is not in solution will not contribute to the reaction. Make sure that the HI has water to dissolve in! Common sense!

III) give the reaction enough time to complete! Fulfilling conditions I and II will still be useless if you don't give A, B and C enough time to complete their reaction to yield D!

IV) Since the cleanup methods available to most bees are rather limited in separation efficiency and since a high yield is desired make sure that the amounts and number of side products (e, f, g, h...) are as small as possible to begin with. Meaning: no flask fires! No excessive reaction conditions!

There is a reason why some of the old timers and bees with a chemical background have always been telling you to do it one way and not the other! It's inevitable that a bunch of wild and reckless youngins will keep challenging the status quo and come up with new ways and 'improvements', that's how progress is made. But not all 'improvements' are really what they claim they are, and all it takes is to start some group dynamics and the whole herd will stampede towards the abyss. Like someone claiming having done a dry reaction in 30 mins and the end product was "way potent dude!" Some wannabees repeating it, failing, and not wanting to admit to themselves and their bee-friends who they bragged about their mad chemist skills that they fucked up the reaction so they confirm the results. Then a bunch of inexperienced bees who read all that, try it out themselves, produce some weak ass mmmeth!, and publicly confirming the result that "this indeed works!!!"

Next comes a charismatic dude who loves to be the center of attention, talks shit about those who know some chemistry backgrounds and publicly claims that "tweakers don't need any of that scientific hoopla to cook some potent chili! Fuck yeah!". Add some easy to follow write-up for the morons and soon everyone is following the new shitty procedure, totally rejecting and forgetting what were once established (and working!) procedures. That's what happened to the A/B at the end of the reaction which once used to be standard procedure, and that's what happened to long reflux.

That's how rumors and urban legends are started. Offer an easy solution and everyone will love you for it. Doesn't matter if the easy solution will not work, it is what the people want to hear and want to believe! Works in politics, and apparently works among bees too. Sad but true.

I say: gently boil that reaction for as long as you can.

Boil for not long enough: you will end up with unconverted precursor and intermediate in your end product. Which you CANNOT separate from your end product easily. And those who manage that will bitch about low yield.

Boil for too long: nothing bad will happen. All precursor is converted. No intermediate is left over. Meth is pretty stable under these conditions and will not decompose. Yield of end product (*potency* ) is maximized.

Final Thoughts

Each lamp is sure to vary some, and all of this is a general rule of thumb, guidelines if you will. it may be necessary to do your own experimentation, but if you have had successful reactions in the past this should prove to be no problem to get it right, although you may go through a few lamps, but they are no big deal, cheap as hell if you into the flea market scene, good deals can be found.

better to overkill than under kill, although try to keep it close as possible

You get out of this process what you put into it. You hurry the process and use unclean E then you end up with SHIT!

the universe rewards those who work at it and don’t give up

Primary Author of lava lamp long wet reaction Jack aka actionjack Secondary Author of lava lamp long wet reaction playaveli

Special thanks to Darksky for the FAQ on “Why it takes time”
successs rate is extremely low and process is very dangerous. Chemicals needed.

  • Diluted HCl - also called Muriatic acid - can be obtained from hardware stores, in the pool section
  • NaOH - also called lye
  • Ethyl Ether - aka Diethyl Ether - Et-0-Et - can be obtained from engine starting fluid, usually from a large supermarket. Look for one that says "high ethyl ether content", such as Prestone
  • Ephedrine The cottons in todays vicks nasle inhalers dont contain efed or pfed (ephedrin or psuedoephedrin) but there are still lots of easy ways to get good ephed or pfed, pure ephedrin can be extracted out of it's plant matter, from a plant that can be bought at most garden stores. Or you can get pfed from decongestive pills like sudafed. Most people perfer to work with pfed from pills rather then ephed from the plant. The important thing is that you must have pure pfed/ephed as any contaminants will fuck up the molar ratio leaving you with over-reduced shit or under-reduced shit. Or contaminats will jell durring baseifying and gak up your product which will then be very hard to clean. So you want to find a pill that is nearly pure pfed hcl, or as close to pure as you can get. Also check the lable on your pills and see what inactive ingredients they contain. Inactive ingredients are things like binders and flavors. These you dont want and will remove when cleaning your pills. but certain inactive ingredients are harder to remove then others. You dont want pills with a red coating, you dont want pills with alot of cellose in them and you dont want pills with much wax. you also dont want pills that contain povidone. As a rule, if you have a two pills that contain the same amount of pfed hcl then take the smaller sized pill because it obviously has less binders and inactive ingredients, time released pills are usualy harder to work with because they have more binders and tend to gel up durring the a/b stage. Also only buy pills that have pfed hcl as the only active ingredient. You first have to make ephedrine (which is sometimes sold as meth by itself):If you are selling it...I would just make ephedrine and say it's meth.
  • Distilled water - it's really cheap, so you have no reason to use the nasty stuff from the tap. Do things right.

      List of equipment :
      • A glass eyedropper
      • Three small glass bottles with lids (approx. 3 oz., but not important)one should be marked at 1.5oz, use tape on the outside to mark it (you might want to label it as ether). One should be clear (and it can't be the marked one).
      • A Pyrex dish (the meatloaf one is suggested)
      • A glass quart jar
      • Sharp scissors
      • Clean rubber gloves
      • Coffee filters
      • A measuring cup
      • Measuring spoons

      Preparing your Lab:

      Preparing Ethyl Ether:
      WARNING: Ethyl Ether is very flammable and is heavier than air. Do not use ethyl ether near flame or non-sparkless motors. It is also an anaesthetic and can cause respiratory collapse if you inhale too much.

      Take the unmarked small bottle and spray starter fluid in it until it looks half-full. Then fill the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle and shake for 5 minutes. Let it sit for a minute or two, and tap the side to try and separate the clear upper layer. Then, draw off the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, and throw away the lower (water) and cloudy layer. Place the ether in the marked container. Repeat this until you have about 1.5 oz. of ether. Put the cap on it, and put it in the freezer if you can. Rinse the other bottle and let it stand.

      Ethyl ether is very pungent. Even a small evaporated amount is quite noticeable.

      Ephedrine & or P-Ephedrine: Please discuss this on the neonjoint forum

      5. Pour 1/8 teaspoon of the lye crystals into the bottle of ephedrine and agitate. Do this carefully, as the mixture will become hot, and give off hydrogen gas and/or steam. H2 gas is explosive and lighter than air, avoid any flames as usual. Repeat this step until the mixture remains cloudy. This step neutralizes the HCl in the salt, leaving the insoluble free base (l-desoxyephedrine) again. Why do we do this? So that we can get rid of any water-soluble impurities. For 3 oz. bottles, this should take only 3 repetitions or so.

      6. Fill the bottle from step 5 up the rest of the way with ethyl ether. Cap the bottle, and agitate for about 8 minutes. It is very important to expose every molecule of the free-base to the ether for as long as possible. This will cause the free base to dissolve into the ether (it -is- soluble in ether).

      7. Let the mixture settle. There will be a middle layer that is very thick. Tap the side of the bottle to get this layer as thin as possible. This is why this bottle should be clear.

      8. Remove the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, being careful not to get any of the middle layer in it. Place the removed ether layer into a third bottle.

      9. Add to the third bottle enough water to fill it half-way and about 5 drops of muriatic acid. Cap it. Shake the bottle for 2 minutes. When it settles, remove the top layer and throw it away. The free base has now been bonded to the HCl again, forming a water soluble salt. This time, we're getting rid of ether-soluble impurities. Make sure to get rid of all the ether before going to step 11!

      10. If there is anything left from step 3, repeat the procedure with it.

      11. Evaporate the solution in the Pyrex dish on low heat. You can do this on the stove or nuke it in the microwave (be careful of splashing), but I have found that if you leave it on top of a hot-water heater (like the one that supplies hot water to your house) for about 2-3 days, the remaining crystals will be ephedrine HCl.

      If you microwave it, I suggest no more than 5-10s at one time. If it starts "popping", that means you have too little liquid left to microwave. You can put it under a bright (100W) lamp instead. Microwaving can result in uneven heating, anyway.

      First Batch: 120mg ephedrine HClEstimated: 300mg (100% of theoretical, disregarding HCl)

      Now, Making Methamphetamine out of ephedrine by reducing it with Hydroiodic Acid and Red Phosphorus.

      Items needed:
      • Alot of matchbooks (the kind with the striking pad)
      • Coffee filters (or filter paper)
      • Something that measures ml and grams
      • A flask (a small pot with a lid can be used)
      • iodine
      • Hydroiodic Acid (I will tell you how to make this)
      • Red Phosphorus (I will tell you how to make this)
      • Lye
      • *Optional (toluene and HCI gas)

      Making Red Phosphorus:
      The striking pad on books of matches is about 50% red phosphorus. The determined experimenter could obtain a pile of red phosphorus by scraping off the striking pads of matchbooks with a sharp knife. A typical composition of the striking pad is about 50% red phosphorus, along with about 30% antimony sulfide, and lesser amounts of glue, iron oxide, MnO2, and glass powder. I don't think these contaminants will seriously interfere with the reaction. Naturally, it is a tedious process to get large amounts of red phosphorus by scraping the striking pads off matchbooks, but who cares?

      Making Hydroiodic Acid:
      This is made by mixing iodine and red phosphorus. When making hydroiodic acid from iodine and red phosphorus, the acid is prepared first, and allowed to come to complete reaction for 20 minutes before adding the ephedrine to it. The way around the roadblock here is to just boil off some more of the water from the ephedrine extract, and make the acid mixture in fresh pure water. Since the production of HI from iodine and red phosphorus gives off a good deal of heat, it is wise to chill the mixture in ice, and slowly add the iodine crystals to the red phosphorus-water mixture.

      Now, Making Methamphetamine:
      To do the reaction, a 1000 ml round bottom flask is filled with 150 grams of ephedrine. Also added to the flask are 40 grams of red phosphorus and 340 ml of 47% hydroiodic acid. This same acid and red phosphorus mixture can be prepared from adding 150 grams of iodine crystals to 150 grams of red phosphorus in 300 ml of water. This should produce the strong hydroiodic acid solution needed. Exactly how strong the acid needs to be, I can't say . With the ingredients mixed together in the flask, a condenser is attached to the flask, and the mixture is boiled for one day. This length of time is needed for best yields and highest octane numbers on the product. While it is cooking, the mixture is quite red and messy looking from the red phosphorus floating around in it.When one day of boiling under reflux is up, the flask is allowed to cool, then it is diluted with an equal volume of water. Next, the red phosphorus is filtered out. A series of doubled up coffee filters will work to get out all the red phosphorus, but real filter paper is better. The filtered solution should look a golden color. A red color may indicate that all the red phosphorus is not yet out. If so, it is filtered again. The filtered-out phosphorus can be saved for use in the next batch. If filtering does not remove the red color, there may be iodine floating around the solution. It can be removed by adding a few dashes of sodium bisulfate or sodium thiosulfate.The next step in processing the batch is to neutralize the acid. A strong lye solution is mixed up and added to the batch while shaking until the batch is strongly basic. This brings the meth out as liquid free base floating on top of the water. The strongly basic solution is shaken vigorously to ensure that all the meth has been converted to the free base. You now can sell or use the free base for injection use or with free base meth now obtained, the next step you can do is to form the crystalline hydrochloride salt of meth. To do this, a few hundred mls of toluene is added to the batch, and the meth free base extracted out as usual. If the chemist's cooking has been careful, the color of the toluene extract will be clear to pale yellow. If this is the case, the product is sufficiently pure to make nice white crystals just by bubbling dry HCl gas through the toluene extract. If the toluene extract is darker colored, a distillation is called for to get pure meth free base. The yield of pure methamphetamine hydrochloride should be from 100 to 110 grams.
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