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(Making GHB,"Liquid E")
(Cultivating Drugs)
How to make a drinkable form of marijuana
Explosives when combinded

How to grow Marijuana:

OUTDOOR GROWING
------------------------

Contrary to propular belief, grass grows well in many place on the
North American continent. It will flourish even if the temperature does
not raise above 75 degrees.
The plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day and
should be planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the
last frost of the year.
Growing an outdoor crop has been the favored method
over the years, because grass seems to grow better without as much
attention when in its natural habitat.
Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encoun-
tered with an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both from
law enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of whom will take your
weed and probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must
also have access to the area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop.
There are two schools of thought about starting the seeds. One says you
should start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box
(see the indoor section) and then transplant. The other theory is that
you should just start them in the correct location. Fewer plants will
come up with this method, but there is no shock of transplant to
kill some of the seedlings halfway through.
The soil should be preprepared for the little devils by turning it
over a couple of times and adding about one cup of hydrated lime per
square yard of soil and a little bit (not too much, now) of good water
soluble nitrogen fertilizer. The soil should now be watered several
times and left to sit about one week.
The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, getting too
greedy and stacking them too close will result in stunted plants.
The plants like some water during their growing season, BUT not too
much. This is especially true around the roots, as too much water will
rot the root system.
Grass grows well in corn or hops, and these plants will help provide
some camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or pepperweed.
It is probally a good idea to plant in many small, broken patches, as
people tend to notice patterns.

GENERAL GROWING INFO
--------------------------------

Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although the male
is not as strong as the female. In a good crop, the male will still be
plenty smokable and should not be thrown away under any circumstances.
Marijuana can reach a hight of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on
a star) and obtain a diameter of 4 1/2 inches. If normal, it has a sex
ratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several ways.
The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will live
another 3 - 5 weeks to produce her seeds. Females can weigh twice as
much as males when they are mature.
Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it, but should also break
apart with a small pressure and absorb water well. A nice test
for either indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms to the
soil, if they live and hang aroung, it is good soil, but if they don't,
well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil loose enough for the
plants to grow well.

SEEDS
---------

To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds. A nice starting
point is to save the seeds form the best batch you have consumed. The
seeds should be virile, that is, they should not be grey and shiriveled
up, but green, meaty, and healthy appearing. A nice test is to drop the
seeds on a hot frying pan. If they "CRACK," they are probably good for
planting purposes.
The seeds should be soaked in distilled water overnight before planting.
BE SURE to plant in the ground with the pointy end UP. Plant about 1/2"
deep. Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days.

SPROUTING
--------------

The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting box
(as sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or use paper cups with holes
punched in the bottoms. The sprouting soil should be a mixture of humus,
soil, and five sand with a bit of organic fertilizer and water mixed
in about one week before planting.
When ready to transplant, you must be sure and leave a ball of soil
around the roots of each plant. This whole ball is dropped into a
baseball-sized hold in the permanent soil.
If you are growing/transplanting indoors, you should use a green
safe light (purchased at nurseries) during the transplanting operation.
If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it about two
hours befor sunset to avoid damage to the plant. Always wear cotton
gloves when handling the young plants.
After the plants are set in the hole, you should water them. It is also
a good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also purchased at
nurseries) to help then overcome the shock.

INDOOR GROWING
----------------------

Indoor growing has many advantages, besides the apparent fact that it
is much harder to have your crop "found," you can control the ambient
conditions just exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed "good"
plant.
Plants grown indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor cousins.
They will be scrawnier appearing with a weak stems and may even require
you to tie them to a growing post to remain upright, BUT THEY WILL HAVE
AS MUCH OR MORE RESIN!
If growing in a room, you should put tar paper on the floors and then
buy sterilized bags of soil form a nursery. You will need about one
cubic foot of soil for each plant.
The plants will need about 150 ml. of water per plant/per week. They
will also need fresh air, so the room must be ventilated. (however,
the fresh air should contain NO TOBACCO smoke.)
At least eight hours of light a day must be provided. As you increase
the light, the plants grow faster and show more females/less males.
Sixteen hours of light per day seems to be the best combination, beyond
this makes little or no appreciable difference in the plant quality.
Another idea is to interrupt the night cycle with about one hour of
light. This gives you more females.
The walls of your growing room should be painted white or covered with
aluminum foil to reflect the light.
The lights themselves can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about
75 watts per plant or one plant per two feet of flouresent tube.
The fluorescents are the best, but do not use "cool white" types. The
light sources should be an average of twenty inches from the
plant and NEVER closer than 14 inches. They may be mounted on a rack
and moved every few days as the plants grow.

HARVESTING AND DRYING
---------------------------------

The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow sepals,
which will split open to fertilize the female plant with pollen.
The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower, which
really doesn't look like a flower at all but rather a small bunch of
leaves in a cluster.
If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you should pick the males
before they shed their pollen as the female will use some of her resin
to make the seeds.
After another three to five weeks, after the males are gone, the females
will begin to wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the time to pick.
If you want seeds - let the males shed his pollen then pick him. Let
the female go another month and pick her.

To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is
accomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room.
You must have a heat source (such as an electric heater) which will make
the box/room each 130 degrees. The box/room must be ventilated
to carry off the water-vapor-laden air and replace it with fresh.
A good box can be constructed from an orange crate with fiberglass
insulated walls, vents in the tops, and screen shelves to hold the leaves.
There must be a baffle between the leaves and the heat source.
A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the soil level
and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leavs. Take out any seeds
by hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum
foil and put them in the middle sheld of the oven, which is set on "broil."
In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and
give another ten seconds before you take them out.

TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF
----------------------------------------
There are several tricks to increase the number of females, or the THC
content of plants:
You can make the plants mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by cutting
back on the light to about 14 hours, but the plants will not be as big.
You should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteen
hours.
You can stop any watering as the plants begin to make the resin rise to
the flowers. This will increse the resin a bit.
You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop flower stalks.
You can snip off the flower, right at the spot where it joins the plant,
and a new flower will form in a couple of weeks.
This can be repeated two or three times to get several times more flowers
than usual.
If the plants are sprayed with Ethrel early in their growing stage, they
will produce almost all female plants. This usually speeds up the flowering
also, it may happen in as little as two weeks.
You can employ a growth changer called colchicine. This is a bit hard to
get and expensive. (Should be ordered through a lab of some sort and
costs about a gram.)
To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution of
distilled water with about 0.10 per cent colchicine. This will cause
many of the seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that do come
up will be polyploid plants. This is the accepted difference between
such strains as "gold" and normal grass, and yours will DEFINITELY
be superweed.
The problem here is that colchicine is a posion in larger quanities and
may be poisonous in the first generation of plants.
Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch off
the leaf tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is in the
seedling stage on through its entire life-span. This produces a distorted,
wrecked-looking plant which would be very difficuly to recognize as
marijuana. Of course, there is less substance to this plant, but such
wrecked creatures have been known to produve so much resin that it
crystallizes a strong hash all over the surface of the plant - might
be wise to try it on a plant or two and see what happens.

PLANT PROBLEM CHART
---------------------------------

Always check the overall enviromental conditions prior to passing
judgment - soil aroung 7 pH or slightly less - plenty of water, light,
fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools.

SYMPTOM PROBABLY PROBLEM/CURE
Larger leaves turning yellow - Nitrogen dificiency - add
smaller leaves still green. nitrate of soda or
organic fertilizer.

Older leaves will curl at edges, Phosphorsus dificiency -
turn dark, possibaly with a purple add commercial phosphate.
cast.

Mature leaves develop a yellowish Magnesium dificiency -
cast to least veinal areas. add commercial fertilizer
with a magnesium content.

Mature leaves turn yellow and then Potassium dificiency -
become spotted with edge areas add muriate of potash.
turning dark grey.

Cracked stems, no healthy support Boron dificiency - add
tissue. any plant food containing
boron.

Small wrinkled leaves with Zinc dificiency - add
yelloish vein systems. commercial plant food
containing zinc.

Young leaves become deformed, Molybedum dificiency -
possibaly yellowing. use any plant food with a
bit of molydbenum in it.


WAYS TO TURN BAD WEED TO GOOD WEED
------------------------------------------------------------------

1. Place the dope in a container which allows air to enter in a restricted
fashion (such as a can with nail holes punched in its lid) and add a
bunch of dry ice, and the place the whole thing in the freezer for a
few days. This process will add a certain amount of potency to the product,
however, this only works with dry ice, if you use normal, everyday
freezer ice, you will end up with a soggy mess...
2. Take a quantity of grass and dampen it, place in a baggie or another
socially acceptable container, and store it in a dark, dampish place
for a couple of weeks (burying it also seems to work). The grass will
develop a mold which tastes a bit harsh, and burns a tiny bit funny,
but does increase the potency.
3. Expose the grass to the high intensity light of a sunlamp for a full
day or so. Personally, I don't feel that this is worth the effort, but
if you just spent of your friend's money for this brick of
super-Colombian, right-from-the-President's-personal-stash,
and it turns out to be Mexican dirt weed, and you're pa cking your bags to
leave town before the people arrive for their shares, well, you might
at least try it. Can't hurt.
4. Take the undisirable portions of our stash (stems, seeds, weak weed,
worms, etc.) and place them in a covered pot, with enough rubbing
alchol to cover everything.
Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on an ELECTRIC stove or lab burner. DO
NOT USE GAS - the alchol is too flammable. After 45 minutes of heat,
remove the pot and strain the solids out, SAVING THE ALCOHOL.
Now, repeat the process with the same residuals, but fresh alchol.
When the second boil is over, remove the solids again, combine the two
quantities of alcohol and reboil until you have a syrupy mixture.
Now, this syrupy mixture will contain much of the THC formerly hidden
in the stems and such. One simply takes this syrup then throughly
combines it with the grass that one wishes to improve upon.



How to grow Psychoactive Fungi (Shrooms):


How to get the mushroom spores:

Well, the only way to grow shrooms is to find shrooms. Look in moist areas, like forest grounds and in fields of cow shit.
Nearly all of the psilocybin containing mushrooms are small brown or tan mushrooms easily mistakable for any number of non-psychoactive, inedible, or poisonous mushrooms in the wild. This makes them somewhat difficult to find, and potentially hazardous, to identify. The primary distinguishable feature of most psilocybin containing mushrooms is that they bruise blue when handled.
I wish you good luck. OR you can buy some fresh, NOT DRIED, mushrooms from your local dealer.



MAKING SPORE-PRINTS:

This is really easy, just wash your hands well, then take a fresh shroom and gently twist the cap off away from the stem ( OR, I usually use a sterilized knife blade to cut the stem off as close to the cap as I can without touching it too much). Then place the cap, gills down, on a sterile card or piece of glass. Cover the cap and card with a clean, small container to keep drafts from blowing the spores away, and to prevent dust/contaminants from settling on the card/glass. I use a small juice glass for this purpose. Leave the covered 'shroom cap on the card/glass overnight and, voila! I suggest folding the card the next day and keeping it in an airtight container (small ziploc bag) in a refrigerator. I have been told that spore prints will keep for up to a year in an airtight refrigerated (not frozen) environment. From personal experience I know that they are still viable after 3 months. Oh, by the way, try to find some use for the 'shroom cap after you've collected the spores from it--it's still psychoactive, so I'm sure you can think of something to do with it...



How to grow:

Materials Needed:

- a sporeprint from a strain of psychedelicc mushrooms. (Make sure it's the real thing, and that it's not contaminated with anything! Dust, for example.)
- a pressure cooker, any size, but preferabbly one with 17 qt. (liquid) capacity. (This is the most expensive item, but it's a necessity. Borrow, rent, buy, or steal one.)
- one dozen (or more) new canning jars, 1 qquart size, pref. wide mouthed, with lids.
- a box/bag of brown rice--NOT white rice. Long grain/wild rice might also be a good growing medium--maybe even better than regular brown rice, although I'm not positive about this. I once used a half-and-half mix of brown rice and Long grain wild rice which worked fine. However, a possible disadvantage to using the long grain/wild rice is that any contaminants such as dark-colored molds will be more difficult to spot in the growing medium.
- something to scrape the spores off the prrint into the jar... You want something like a stiff metal wire with a handle, so you can heat the end red hot in a flame to sterilize it without burning your fingers. I find that a probe from a Biology dissection kit works wonderfully.
- a flame source. An alcohol lamp is not haard to make out of a small jar filled with rubbing alcohol, with a cotton ball as a wick. I suppose you could just use a lighter, but i prefer making an alcohol lamp--just make sure you don't burn your place down!!
- a clean place to store your jars--should have a relatively constant temp. (The optimum temperature for starting the 'shrooms is 86 degrees F, but I have found room temperature to work fairly well). Closet shelves are fine, in my experience. You want a place that's pretty dust/bug free, but you don't want the storage area to be airtight, as shrooms do have to breathe just like any other living organism. However, if you do have to cut a few corners you should still be successful if you just USE YOUR HEAD! Which leads me to the....
- optional materials: germ-killing soap forr washing hands, alcohol for sterilizing hands, etc., surgical gloves, dust masks, hair-nets, an air-filtering machine (Pollenex?), a couple 1 gallon jugs of distilled water, a spray bottle, bleach. (As you can see, this is all stuff which will help to make things a bit more sterile--definetly recommended!)


PROCEDURE:

This is the procedure I follow for the rice-cake method of propagating psychedelic mushrooms. I use this method for a number of reasons. One is that my first ever batch consisted of 6 jars of manure medium and 6 of the brown rice medium, I found the rice cakes produced more 'shrooms, and for a longer period of time than did the manure-filled jars. Rice has obvious advantages in that it's easy to obtain--no trekking thru a pasture looking for fresh cow-shit! Also, the manure stinks like hell when cooked in the pressure cooker! Perhaps the biggest advantage to the rice cake method is that when the rice cake no longer produces crops of 'shrooms (about 2mos.), you can actually CONSUME THE RICE CAKE ITSELF!! Given, of course, that you detect no contaminants on the rice cake (molds or bacteria). When mushroom growth stops, the rice cake can provide a trip for 2-4 people. See the end of this article for methods of ingesting mushrooms/rice cakes...


PROCEDURE:

1. Turn off the air-conditioner in the place you're going to do this...It is very important to work in a draft-free area. Turning the A/C off will allow the dust in the room to settle (including the heavier mold spores which can contaminate your rice-cake medium. )
2. Set up the pressure cooker, make sure you read the manual if you have one. You don't want the damn pressure cooker exploding, or anything like that... Wash out the pressure cooker for good measure, and also wash the jars and lids. I wouldn't use a towel to dry them out, though, you'll just wipe germs & dust back on 'em.
3. Wash yourself, too. It's recommended that you wear a long sleeved shirt, and to pull your hair back or wear a cap or hair-net. I don't think that the dust mask would be necessary at this point, maybe later, though...
4. For each quart-size canning jar, add 1/4 cup brown rice and 1/3 - 1/2 cup water. I use the distilled water that you can buy in any grocery store--I don't trust tap water. Fill 6 or 7 jars with this mixture, or as many as will fit into your pressure cooker without stacking or jamming them in there. Place the lids on the jars, with the rubber UP, and leave the lids very loose.
5. Place the jars on the bottom rack of the pressure cooker. I recommend using the rack, that way the jars won't tip and spill as the water boils around them. Using the rack also keeps them from breaking from the heat of the burner directly below them. For a 17 quart pressure cooker, add about 3 quarts of water, but not so much that the jars start to float and tip over. Again, I use distilled water for this.
6. Now, follow the directions for sealing the pressure cooker. Some recommend that you rub a dab of cooking oil on the seal, so that it seals properly and is easier to close and open. Do it right. Do it by the book. Turn the stove on its highest setting and allow the pressure inside the cooker to build up to 15 lbs. Once the pressure inside the cooker has reached 15 lbs., you want to maintain it at that level for one complete hour. You may have to turn down the stove for brief periods so that the pressure doesn't rise to unsafe levels above 15 lbs. When the hour has passed, turn off the stove and LET THE PRESSURE COOKER COOL BEFORE OPENING! Also, don't try to rush the cooling process, as the jars may crack.
7. Just before opening the pr. cooker, wash up again, maybe use rubbing alcohol or put on surgical gloves. Now is the time for dust masks (although I use my shirt to keep from breathing germs on the jars). Long sleeves and a hat or whatever is recommended because literally millions of germs are falling off your body at any given moment. Sterility and the absence of drafts are of utmost importance from here on out... (some books recommend filling a spray bottle with a 10% bleach / 90 % water solution and using it to mist the air in the room to further reduce airborne contaminants.)
8. Open the pressure cooker and let the jars cool until they're pretty close to room temp. If you remove the jars too soon, they will crack and you will have to start over with new jars, so it pays to be a little patient. You may want to tighten the lids a bit so air/germs can't contaminate the rice cakes. When the jars cool off, you're ready to go...
9. Heat your wire loop/probe/whatever until it is GLOWING RED. Put on your dust mask or pull your shirt up over your nose and mouth.
10. Lift the lid off the jar and set it down on a sterile surface, with the inside face down. OR let a friend hold the lid for you. Make sure the person has washed/sterilized his/her hands as well as you have.
11. Get out your sporeprint and hold it over the open jar at an acute angle. Use the sterilized wire loop/probe to gently scrape and tap the sporeprint to get the spores down onto the rice cake. If you can see dark specks fall onto the rice, you've done it sufficiently--anything you can see is probably several thousand spores. A sporeprint the size of a nickel can EASILY innoculate a dozen jars.
12. Screw the jar's lid on tightly and shake the jar until the rice cake breaks up. This will allow the spores to spread throughout the rice medium, thus increasing the chances for success. A good way to start the process is to inspect the jars carefully for cracks, invert the jar, and strike the lid against the heel of your hand. Next, unscrew the lid until it almost comes off-- this allows for air to get into the jar. I usually just screw the lid on about 3/4 of a turn--just enough where it won't fall off easily.
13. When you've done this for all your jars, put the jars in a safe, clean place with a fairly constant temp., a dark place is best. In 3 days-2 weeks you should see white, fluffy mycelia appear--looks like white fuzz. Any other color of fuzz (green, black, etc.) is mold, and the jar should be disposed of. I'm not kidding about this! Certain contaminants, molds in particular, can cause illness or even death if you ingest the contaminated 'shrooms. It's better to be safe than sorry, believe me. Also be on the lookout for bacterial infections of the rice medium. These will often appear as colored (orange or pink) runny or clammy looking gunk in with the rice. These should be thrown out immediately as well. Bacterial infections may also give off a kind of putrid odor, but of course you should not be taking the lids off the jars at all during this stage. Now, the rice itself will get very soft as a result of the pressure cooking, and the initial shaking of the jar may smear gel-looking gunk all over the insides of the jar. But by comparing with the rest of the jars you should be able to tell the difference between this gunk and a bacterial infection. Like I said before, JUST USE YOUR HEAD!!
14. This is not actually another step because you're done! Just sit back and wait for nature to take its course! Shrooms are pretty much maintenance-free until fruiting starts to occur. It should take anywhere from 2 weeks to 1 month for the mycelia to completely permeate the rice medium, then it will start getting these stringy looking or fan shaped runners in the white fuzzy growth. Mushroom formation is not far off, and the jars should be getting a couple of hours of light per day--fluorescent is OK, and natural sunlight is superb, just make sure the jars don't get too warm. Of course at all stages be on the lookout for any possible contaminants in the mycelia. By the way, as the mycelia mature, they may start staining blue in spots, due to bruising, I think--so don't mistake this for a mold infection, but keep a close eye on any change in color from the white coloring. The 'shrooms first appear as tiny white pinheads and then the caps will darken (in P. cubensis) to a lovely reddish brown. When the 'shrooms are growing the lids on the jars should be very loose to allow for air exchange. Also, mushrooms grow best in an environment with a humidity of over 90%, so if you think that your 'shrooms may need a more moist environment, one thing to do is to simply use a spray bottle to spray boiled or distilled water directly onto the lids of the jars. I find that the moisture condenses inside the jars and runs down the inside of the jars, moisturizing the mycelia. You could also VERY LIGHTLY mist the surface of the rice cake if it looks dry. You don't want things TOO wet, however, as this will promote mold/bacteria growth and actually inhibit mushroom formation. Another possible method is to replace the lids with a double layer of paper towel which is misted daily--although I would think that not having an actual lid on the jar would invite contamination. Just my personal opinion. It is important that air exchange takes place in the storage area--this becomes more important as fruiting occurs, as the mycelia gives off CO2 and needs O2. Remember that CO2 is heavier than normal air, so it might be good to tip the jars a few times a day to let the CO2 dissipate out of the jar.


HARVESTING:

'Shrooms are "ripe" as soon as the white membrane connecting the cap to the stem has broken somewhat, although you don't want to pick them before they have reached their full size! To harvest an individual mushroom, wash your hands well--I use rubbing alcohol, too. Then take the lid off the jar and grasp the mushroom firmly near the base. You may need to use a pair of sterilized tweezers to do this, which is what I do--I avoid placing germy hands inside the jars. A brisk twisting motion will help to free the 'shroom from the mycelia. If it is too difficult to harvest them using those methods, you can clean you hands, wash a small knife (preferably with anti-bacterial soap), dip the blade in alcohol, flame it for several seconds, then use the tip of the sterilized knife to cut the mushroom as close to the rice cake as possible.


STORAGE AND METHODS OF INGESTION:

Avoid crushing fresh mushrooms before storing them. The blue staining that is common in psychedelic mushrooms is evidence of oxidation--meaning that the active ingredients (psilocin and psilocybin) are being oxidized, too--rendering the 'shrooms inactive. While refrigeration is recommended, freezing fresh mushrooms should be avoided, since the expansion of the freezing water in the cells ruptures the cell walls and thus opens them up for oxidation. Mushrooms that were frozen while fresh may be an attractive blue color, but they are inactive.... Storage of fresh mushrooms should be in a breathable container such as a paper bag stored in a refrigerator, avoid putting fresh 'shrooms in a ziploc bag, as they may become slimy or moldy--ugh! Read my section on storage at the bottom. There are a few methods of drying mushrooms, although I have found dried shrooms to be MUCH weaker than fresh ones. One way to dry them is by placing them on a cookie sheet in an oven on the lowest temp. with the door slightly open. Simply drying them in sunlight is said to work also. My main problem with dried shrooms is that in my experience they are not any-where near as potent as fresh 'shrooms. I believe the reason for this is that the two psychoactive ingredients (psilocin and psilocybin) are present in equal amounts in fresh shrooms. BUT, psilocin is an unstable compound compared to psilocybin, and breaks down readily when exposed to heat and oxygen. The normal dosage for dried shrooms is 1 - 5 grams, dried. Whether they are dried or fresh, there are many interesting ways to ingest them. Read the food recipes above to find more. My current favorite method is to blend 3-4 fresh ones in a blender with orange juice--the effects are fantastic and the taste is tolerable. I believe this is due in part to the fact that the shrooms are almost completely liquified by the blending process, releasing the "good stuff" into the orange juice and making it more readily absorbed by the stomach. Some people may say that the vitamin C in the OJ also enhances the effects, but this may be just a myth. Another good method, one which I have used to eat the rice cakes, was to chop the rice cake (or shrooms), and brown them for JUST a few seconds in butter or margarine before pouring in an omelete mixture. Mushroom omeletes!! Not only a meal, but a good trip, and a tasty way to ingest the shrooms! (I happen to dislike the taste of shrooms by themselves) Yet another method of taking shrooms is to make a milkshake in a blender, and add the shrooms, you can make kind of a "strawberry smoothie" in this way. Remember though, that dairy products may delay/block the absorption of certain substances. Another method of ingestion is to boil the shrooms, fresh or dried (or a rice cake) in a couple cups of water for about 5 minutes (until they have sunk), and then either add a tea bag for hot tea, or make Kool-Aid with the cooled water (straining out the shrooms, of course). Sprinkling fresh or dried shrooms (chopped) onto pizza, or into spaghetti sauce is another treat--fun for a "shroom party". Since psilocin and psilocybin are soluble in both water and alcohol, soaking shrooms in any liquor will release these active ingredients into the liquor, making for a powerfully intoxicating liquor mix. I have tried smoking a couple dried shroom caps, but only got the slightest buzz from the VERY harsh smoke, no real effects to tell the truth. I should mention again that once shroom production has really tapered off (and you'll be able to tell) after 2 - 3 months, the rice cake can be eaten/used, if you closely examine it and decide that there is no green or black mold contaminant present. I should note that the rice cake will probably be all kinds of funky colors--a mix of white, steel blue, gray, maybe even purple in places from spores falling on it! I have ingested several scary-looking rice cakes, however, with no ill effects. Again, USE YOUR HEAD! If in doubt, toss it out--it's not worth a trip (no pun intended) to the hospital. A single rice cake is enough for 2 - 4 people to trip on, although 2 is probably the better figure. Some of my best trips were on half a rice cake chopped up and cooked in an omelete! That's what I love about the rice-cake method--when the shrooms stop growing there's no waste! Speaking of no waste, if I ever had a rice cake that I didn't want to risk eating I might use it to innoculate a compost pile or a pasture full of cow shit by inserting a small piece into each cow-pie or into the compost pile. Just think of the idea of starting a culture of wild mushrooms in your area...





ANOTHER WAY TO GROW SHROOMS:

Get a Rubbermade bucket-shaped container which will fit in your microwave. Every step goes on in this one container. In the bottom put two cups of vermiclulite. Use a spatula to mix in enough distilled water to make the vermiclulite about as damp as it can be without feeling soggy. (Usually about a cup).The following dry ingredients can be added one at a time or mixed together. The idea is to coat the wet vermiculite particles with the dry powder as you stir the mix with the spatula. This sounds trivial but it makes all the difference.

Ingredients :

1/4 cup brown rice flour
1/2 teaspoon dextrose
500mg glycine
1/2 teaspoon oyster shell powder
1/2 teaspoon trace minerals (gypsum powder may work)

Where do you get this stuff? - All are available at health food stores. Dextrose is also available from wine making / beer brewing stores, or diabetic supply companies.

After the mix is made lightly tamp it down and cover this layer with 1/2" to 1" dry vermiculite. Microwave the bucket for 8 minutes with the top slightly off. Allow to cool -completely- in the microwave. (If you take it out and put the top on tight the top will get sucked in.) Now you're ready to innoculate.
I favor innoculation with mycelium water, but many have advocated spore water. Either one will work but mycelium water is much faster and has less chance of contamination. A large innoculation around the edges and several squirts in the middle (5-15cc) will get things going in a hurry.
Wrap the outside of the container to the level of the top of the vermiculite with aluminum foil. Set it on a shelf and forget it. Fruits will appear in the bucket in about three weeks (at 75 F). After the second flush squirt in another 50cc or so of water. Sometime these buckets flush for months. When it looks old and pooped drop in a sterilized cow patty and more water. Again you may get more flushes.



STORAGE:


Honey Storage:

I always store my mushrooms in honey, whether they're fresh or dried. Dried I usually chop them up, then let them set for a month or two for the entheogenic goodies to disperse throughout the honey. At this point, with enough fungus in the mix, the stuff looks like food. (Yes, I know...). This means you can take it anywhere, especially paired with a likely-looking bagel. Fresh shroomies seem to go into a state of suspended animation when dunked in honey, though some of the sparkles still end up in the honey itself.


CO2 Mushroom storage:

Many growers say that their mushrooms, when kept in air tight glass containers, will last for 5+ years. Others recommend using carbon dioxide (CO2) for long term storage, to keep oxidation of psilocybin and psilocin to a minimum. Since most people don't have a tank of CO2 available, dry ice can be used as the CO2 source. Dry ice is frozen carbon dioxide, so evaporating it at room temperature will produce CO2. It's generally quite inexpensive...somewhere on the order of for 10 lbs. Some people have mentioned a concern that commercially produced dry ice may leave a small amount of acetone residue when evaporated. Apparently acetone is sometimes used in the production of dry ice. Check with your dry ice source to find out about contaminents...ask if it's safe to use in a beverage you're going to cool.
Assuming you've found a source of contaminant-free dry ice...

1. Take an empty mason jar and put a small piece of dry ice in the bottom. In order to fill the jar with CO2 you'll need a piece about 3 cubic centimeters - about the size of a standard die.
2. Immediately put the mushrooms in on top of the dry ice. As long as your CO2 is pure, it's ok for the mushrooms touch the dry ice. Alternately you could put the mushrooms in a plastic bag inside the jar so they don't touch the dry ice.
3. Set the lid lightly on top without sealing it and wait until the dry ice evaporates. Don't tighten the lid until it has all evaporated or it could explode. The carbon dioxide which is released during the evaporation process is heavier than air, so it will stay in the jar while displacing the air.
Once the dry ice is fully evaporated, simply tighten the lid
4. The jar can then be kept at room temperature until it's opened. The point of freezing mushrooms is to try to slow the oxydation process. In this case there is no oxygen present, so freezing will have little effect.








How to grow Psychoactive Cacti (Peyote and San Pedro):

They take a while, something between a fruit tree and a 30 year government bond. But hold on, there's hope. In the Texas desert with infrequent rain, a peyote button 1 inch across may be ten years old. In home cultivation, you can get this in two or 3 years. Therefore a 5 year old button under prime cultivation conditions would be eating size. And yes, once the carrot like root is established new buttons rapidly form from the sliced portion, if cut at ground level or just above. These new pups are fairly large within a year.
Grafting is a way of cutting small seedlings and growing them on faster growing rootstock. Using this method, we are going from raisin size babies to 3 inch buttons in 4 or 5 months, a huge increase. However these spoiled little critters have had almost no time to produce alkaloids, so the best thing to do with this technique is to re-cut the grown graft and allow it to re-establish its own roots. The beauty of this method lies in the ability to increase one's stock plant supply considerably within one growing season. Starting from seed, one can graft the babies a year later, grow for a year on graft, then another on its own roots, or about 3 yrs total until dinner. When grafting seedlings, the crown is grafted first, then (tip of the day) the tiny roots can be grafted onto another graft stock, upside down, and will also shoot forth several new heads in a season, thus making several buttons from each seed. The possibilities are exciting.




Getting your hands on Cuttings and Seeds:

The easiest way to start growing cactus is from cuttings. To get cuttings you need to find a cactus to cut from! This can be the hard part. The easiest cactus to find would be Trichocereus pachanoi a.k.a. San Pedro. You can find this at any good plant nurseries. Or if you live in the Southwest part of the U.S.A. you can go out and find San Pedro or Peyote. Peyote is small and needleless. It is smooth and looks like a big button. When you see it, you'll know it. When you find it, dug it up and transplant it and then use it's cuttings and seeds to grow more. San Pedro is about two to three feet tall. It is in the shape of a star if you look down at it. It has spines and common in states like Arizona and New Mexico.

Growing Tips for our Spiny Friends:

Cacti are part of a larger group of plants called succulents. Through natural selection most Cacti species lost their leaves, which allowed too much evaporation in the desert. Their stems became thick, and round to minimize surface area, and to store water. To protect themselves from the Sun and predators many species developed spines and hair, waxy skin, along with bitter alkaloids.
Most Cacti do fairly well as house plants, but however they are quite slow growing. Be sure and save the sunniest spots in your house for your Cactus plants as they need lots of light. Don't forget to turn them every few weeks so that they are evenly illuminated. If you are going to grow some of your Cacti to flower, or for seeds, then don't move them while in bloom. They are very sensitive to disturbances at this stage and can drop the buds.
Strange as it sounds, you can sunburn even a Cactus. If you are going to put your Cactus outside, they must first be acclimatized. Keep them in the shade for a few weeks, and then move them into partial sun. Don't be in a hurry to scorch them under a hot July Sun, give them a month or more to get gradually get used to it. If after you put it outside your cactus starts to acquire a lighter green or tan tint, it is probably sunburned, move it to some shade.

Watering:

As a rule water your Cacti seldom, and be very careful not to over water. Cacti and other succulents prefer hot and dry conditions and a soil that affords good drainage and aeration. Let the soil dry out completely between waterings during the growing season, and water even less during the winter. When watering your Cactus don't forget to use lukewarm water, cold water can shock the roots. A good way to test if your cactus needs water is to poke a small, clean redwood stake in the soil. If it comes up with small particles clinging to it, then the soil is still moist.

Different Soil Types:

A good soil mix is essential if you expect good growth and health for your Cactus. They prefer a porous alkaline soil. Contrary to popular belief, Cacti don't grow well in plain sand. There are several good brands of commercially available Cactus soils that come prepackaged. For those of you who want to do it yourself, here are a few recommended soil formulas. Ingredients are available at most garden centers, or larger department stores.
1. Equal parts commercial potting soil and builders sand. Also add one Tablespoon each of ground bone meal and ground limestone per gallon of mix.
2. Three parts course sand, one part loam (good rich soil), one part leaf mold.
3. Two parts soil mix, one part fine to small size pumice, one part leaf mold.
If you are making your own soil it would be a good idea to sterilize the mixture by baking in an oven at 400 degrees F for 60 minutes. This kills most bacteria, larvae, weed seeds and insect eggs.
Tip: Be sure and put a 1 cm deep layer of gravel on top of the soil surface. This will help secure the plant and help avoid base rot.

Fertilizing your Cactus:

All mature actively growing cacti need to be fed occasionally. It is best to use a formula specifically designed for cactus like 7-40-6. (Nitrogen, phosphorus, potash) Use a mixture with a low ratio of nitrogen, as cacti can be burned by it. A commercial formula such as miracle grow or rapid grow can be used, but should be diluted to half strength. I have heard that "cactus juice" brand by Sudbury (1-7-6), is highly recommended. Regular Bone Meal, available at most Garden Centers, makes an excellent organic fertilizer. Don't forget the macro-nutrients like Iron (Fe), Calcium (Ca), Sulfur (S), and Magnesium (Mg). Also important are the micro-nutrients Copper (Cu), Zinc (Zn), and Manganese (Mn).
San Pedro especially, does very well indoors behind glass. A location where the plant gets at least 4 hours a day of bright, direct sunlight is ideal. The best possible situation would be a South facing sliding glass door, and a reflective screen placed behind the Cactus to redirect and concentrate the light.
Many Cacti have beautiful and fragrant flowers, but they can be quite hard to get to bloom. The optimal conditions to induce flowering are, a cooler temperature (especially at night), reduced day length (12 hours or less), and variations in nutrients (lower nitrogen levels). Try putting your Cactus in a dark, unheated garage (not below freezing) for a few weeks. Forcing can also be done inside, but you need a place next to lots of glass that stays cooler than the rest of the house.

Planting/Transplanting:

Cacti prefer to be in unglazed clay pots with a layer of course gravel and charcoal in the bottom. Most Cacti have far ranging lateral roots so a shallow, wide clay pot is preferred. Be sure not to put your cactus in too large a pot because that can lead to later problems. A tall narrow pot often leads to stress and stunted growth.
Avoid transplanting too many times as this can also shock the plant, pick one size and stick with it a while. The best time to transplant is during the spring. Have a plastic fork on hand to help poke soil into those tight places. Clean off any loose soil that might be stuck to your plant with a small brush. Don't water for a few days.
A tip to remember. When handling small Cacti, use a pair of tongs, and for larger ones, use a rolled up newspaper. Cactus spines can be very sharp and can penetrate gloves, as you may well become aware of.


KEEPING CACTUS ALIVE IN WINTER:

During the dormant period (winter) your cactus should be watered only enough to prevent it from shriveling. Don't water at all if it is humid for an extended period. During dormancy water is not taken in as rapidly by the plants roots, nor does it evaporate as quickly, and the result might be root rot. If possible bring your cactus inside the house and place it by a sunny window so it can continue to grow (slowly) through the winter. There are however other methods, as this cactophile explains.
Cacti are well suited to being packaged for extended periods without light or water, they will almost always arrive at your house in good condition. As most species are cold resistant, they can be shipped any time of year. Since Cacti are tough and hardy, they don't have to be shipped by an overnight service, like most tropicals.
About a couple weeks before the first hard frost (see Farmer's Almanac for dates) I make sure that the soil dries up completely (shielding the plants from rain if required). Then I just move the containers inside my garage to protect the cacti from freezing. The temperature in the attached, but unheated garage drops to about 38 degrees during the coldest part of Winter. There is no window, or lights available. The cacti remain sheltered in the garage, in total darkness, all Winter until I bring them out in the Spring after all danger of frost is past.
I usually keep them under a shaded patio for a week or so, and slowly move them to partial direct sun, then full sun over the course of two weeks (they are subject to sunburn if exposed to direct sun immediately after emergence from the dark.) They are watered lightly each week unless water is provided naturally by rain.
When they are accustomed to full sun. I use Miracle Grow plant food (as directed for container plants, even though they are exposed to the rain outdoors.) I usually repeat fertilizing every 3 weeks or so during the Summer.
By July there is usually some good new growth which is very explosive in August and continues (slower) into late September. By late October the cycle continues and they are again placed in the dark shelter of a garage.

GROWING FROM CUTTINGS:

Note: When harvesting a large Cactus, make sure that it is at least 18 inches (46 cm) long. Cut the Cactus into 3 equal size sections with a sterilized blade. Do this by making one slice 1/3 of the way from the growing tip, and another slice 1/3 of the way from the base of the plant. (Soil level) Leave the bottom, rooted section to regrow, use the middle section for your purposes, and use the top piece to root as a cutting.
When rooting a Trichocereus species, take a cutting that is at least 15 cm (6 inch) in length. I have heard that cuttings as small as 2 cm (1 inch) thick can be rooted, but I advise a larger section. Be sure and take the cutting from a growing tip. Cut several shallow nicks in the ribs close to the bottom of the cutting. Set it in a cool dark place until the bottom becomes dry and hard to the touch (somewhat like cork).
The section is now ready for planting after being dipped in a rooting hormone like Root Tone (use per instructions). The section should be inserted about 7 cm (3 inch) into a commercial cactus mix. Be careful as the pot will probably be top heavy. Keep the cutting in the shade and let the soil dry out completely between waterings (watch for rot). Cuttings might need an occasional misting at their bases if they fail to root or shrivel.
Some cluster forming Cacti, such as Mammillaria can be easily separated from the mother plant after they start forming separate roots. Just carefully break them off of the parent plant with a gentle, twisting motion ( a sterilized knife may be needed for those stubborn plants ). Plant the young starts as you would any other cutting, just remember to slightly bury the plants and cover all roots.

GRAFTING TECHNIQUES:

Cacti are almost unique in the fact that they can be easily grafted. This is the process of joining the stem or a piece of a plant on to the rooted section of a different plant. Trichocereus make an excellent grafting stock for slower growing cactus. Grafting is best performed in the springtime, when the plant is growing at its most vigorous. The process is as follows:
With a sterile knife, (either by alcohol or flame) cut the top off of the plant that will be used as the base. Bevel the edge of the top slightly, to form a shape like an upside down pie plate. Make sure to trim off all of the spines along its edge to prevent misalignment. Sterilize your knife and cut a thin slice off of the top of your base Cactus again. Leave this slice in place as it protects the cut surface. Next, un-pot the plant that is going to be on top and slice off its roots a small way up the stem (remove any dead, dry areas). Again sterilize, and bevel, and cut a protective slice just like before.
Just before you join the two pieces (the scion and stalk), discard the protective slices. Be careful to align both plants sets of growth rings. You should push them together firmly because you want to be sure that all air bubbles are squeezed out. Carefully secure the plants in place using twist ties, rubber bands, or string weighted down with bolts. Do not over tighten, you don't want to strangle it, just hold it firmly together.
Do not water your plant or place it in the Sun for a few days to a week, give the graft time to seal. Then remove the bindings and slowly acclimatize your new friend to its surroundings.
Peyote has been known to increase its growth rate markedly if they are grafted on to the tips of faster growing Cacti like Opuntia. That leads me to an interesting question. Has anyone ever grafted several Peyote buds on the tips of a large, multi-branched San Pedro? It would probably look something akin to a scraggly X-mas tree, with a general conical shape, but a dozen or so thick arms, each tipped with a large cluster of bulging buttons. Hmm, gets one to thinking.

GROWING CACTI FROM SEED:

A preferred method of growing is from seed. Cacti should be germinated in sandy, well-drained soil. A commercial sterilized cactus mix works fine. Use small ceramic pots 5 x 5 cm (2 x 2 inch) since they allow soil to dry out completely (after germination) and prevent root rot. Most cacti germination temperature should be around 70 degrees F. Peyote should be around 80 - 90 degrees.
Place a small piece of cotton over the pots drainage hole and pull a few strands through to act as a wick. Fill the pot with cactus mix. Place the seed on top of the soil in the center of the pot. Additional soil should be sifted through a tea strainer to barely cover the seed.
Put the pots in a Tupperware container with a translucent snap-top lid."Bottom" water the pots by pouring about 1/4 inch of tepid water (never cold) into the Tupperware. Bottom watering causes the roots to grow strong, from searching for the water. When you first plant the seeds, you should also top water once with a fine mist water sprayer. The soil should be well watered throughout but not soggy. Place the lid on the container and place it outside (April - July) or under artificial lights (For an earlier start indoors).
The Tupperware creates a mini greenhouse, and should be kept closed except for a daily check on the seeds progress (which allows some necessary air circulation) until the seeds germinate. They don't need any additional watering or misting during this time (unless for some reason the water level in the container drops below 1/16 inch). Be careful that your mini greenhouse isn't too humid. Wipe off any beads of condensation that form on the containers lid. Also be careful that the temperature isn't too hot, as this can cook the seedlings.
Many species germinate within a few weeks. When the seedlings first appear, they look like tiny green spheres. After they have sprouted, replace the Tupperware lid with a piece of stretched muslin secured with string or a rubber band. This will allow air circulation, which can be increased by placing a fan above the container. Adequate air circulation is essential as all green plants require plenty of CO2 to grow. Seedlings are more sensitive to light than mature plants. They should be dark green. If they are a reddish or brown color, they are receiving too much light, and additional pieces of muslin must be placed over the top of the container to shade them. If they are yellowish then they are not getting enough light.
When the seedlings have germinated, place a thin layer of very fine aquarium gravel on the surface of the soil. This gravel will help to support the new seedlings and protect the surface from drying out too quickly. Be careful to gently scoop out any green moss-like growth that might appear because of high humidity.
After four to five months (when spines have formed on seedlings) remove the muslin shading for one or two hours a day to give the seedlings more light. Stop bottom watering and use a watering can twice a week. Water around the seedlings, not on top of them. The seedlings should be misted occasionally (not a lot) in hot weather. Seedlings should be brought inside for their first winter, and kept moist (they cant handle very cold weather). They should be placed in a sunny window away from cold drafts.
Also note: The use of some sort of fungicide when germinating cacti seeds is almost mandatory due to the high humidity levels involved. I have heard reports that the fungicides Daconil and Consan 20 can cause reduced germination rates, and are not recommended. I have heard a recommendation for the brand name Chinosal, but have not used it personally.

GROWING CACTUS INDOORS, UNDER LIGHTS:

It is recommended that a minimal level of illumination to grow Cactus indoors is around 15 watts per square foot (150 watts/ sq. meter). Fluorescent lighting should be placed 12 - 15 inches (28 - 35 cm) from the top of the plants. High Intensity Discharge Bulbs should be placed considerably further away (depending on wattage). Plants do much better if the day length is kept more or less constant, depending of course on the season. Be sure and use a timer set to 12 - 18 hours a day. Most plants grow best if the light, dark period matches that of their native habitats. When using artificial lights, be sure and use reflectors to catch and concentrate as much light as you can on the individual plants. For maximum growth, your plants should be rotated about every two weeks to assure even illumination.
Cactus, like most plants are more sensitive to certain frequencies (colors) of light. This is usually towards the blue and red parts of the spectrum. For best results use a grow light type of tube for fluorescent lights, or for killer results, step up to a metal halide. These kind of lights produce more light in the colors that the plant can use.
Metal Halide fixtures also produce a great deal of heat and some UV radiation, your Cactus will love it. These fixtures have proven to work well in an indoor environment as they have been used by "closet" growers successfully for years.

DISEASES AND PARASITES OF CACTUS:

Usually Cacti are very disease free, but occasionally. Especially if the plant is over watered, any part may be susceptible to molds or rot. If the roots are infected, then most probably the core is also and the plant is lost. If an above ground part of your plant is affected, the area should be cut out with a sharp knife to remove any infected matter. The cut parts should then be dusted with sulfur or a fungicide.
If any of the roots are affected then the plant should be un-potted and thoroughly cleaned. Of course all rotted or dead parts are removed and burned. The plant should then be repotted in pure sand and kept dry at a temperature between 64 - 70 degrees F. Cactus are tough and are designed to withstand long periods of drought, they should start growing again when healed and watered.
Usually the only pests that may plague your Cactus collection are scale insects belonging to the superfamily Coccoidea, mealy bugs, and nematodes. Of interesting note, one species of scale is intentually grown on Opuntia Cactus so that their eggs can be harvested and made into a red dye.
An environmentally friendly method of controlling scale is to spray the plants with a mixture of rubbing alcohol and nicotine. Make sure to coat the entire surface of the plant. If nematodes are present, the plant must be un-potted and the roots cut off. It is then repotted in a sterile soil mix till rerooted. The infected soil should then be sterilized or discarded, and all infected matter should be burned.


What do you do once you have grown your Cacti?:

Prepering San Pedro to Eat:

Look at the food recipes for more!

Yes, San Pedro cactus (Trichocereus pachanoi) does contain mescaline. It can be found at many nurseries that specialize in cacti and succulents, and you can raise it at home. It is a not-uncommon ornamental cactus. Here is a way to prepare the stuff that I have found effective:
1. Take a length of cactus, six inches per person, and carefully cut away the spine areoles.
2. Freeze the de-spined cactus. This helps break down cell walls to make extraction of the good stuff easier.
3. Thaw it in a bowl or watertight container. Don't lose the goo that drips out!
4. Using a carrot peeler or a small knife, peel the green skin off. Try to remove as little of the flesh as possible.
5. Cut the peeled cactus into small chunks.
6. Using a blender or a food processor, chop the chunks into mush.
7. Squeeze the mush through cheesecloth, to get the liquid out, and discard the contents of the cheesecloth.
8. Mix the goo from step 3 with the liquid from step 7.
9. Add milk (about a pint per person) to the mixture. Blend.
Serve.
Fasten your seatbelts, extinguish all smoking materials, put your seat backs and tray tables in their full upright and locked position, and enjoy your flight.
San Pedro cactus tastes like the bitterest cucumber on God's good green earth. It's difficult to get down -- but once it's down, it stays down. One helpful variation is to use storebought eggnog rather than straight milk. Another variation is to add a scoop or two of icecream per person to the milk to make a mescaline milkshake.

 

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